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Selling to specific retailers

How to Sell to Nordstrom and Department Stores

By Martin Mecar, founderSeptember 14, 20267 min read

Department stores were supposed to be dying for twenty years, and yet a placement at Nordstrom still does something for a small apparel, beauty, accessories or home brand that almost nothing else does: it tells every other buyer in the country that someone with real standards said yes. Learning how to sell to Nordstrom, and to the other department stores that run on the same model, is mostly about understanding a buying system that has its own money, its own paperwork and its own calendar. This guide covers the divisions, the doors in, the costs nobody tells you about and what to put in front of the buyer.

How a department store buys

A department store is really dozens of stores under one roof. Each division — women's apparel, men's, shoes, beauty, accessories, kids, home and gifts — has its own buying team, its own budget and its own seasonal calendar. The buyer for your category is the person who matters, and their assistant is often the person who actually reads your email.

Department store buyers work on two things a small brand should understand from the start:

  • Open-to-buy. Each buyer has a budget for the season, and it is often committed months ahead. A great product pitched after the budget is spent waits a season.
  • Margin after markdowns. Buyers are judged on what they earn after the product goes on sale, not on the initial price. That is why the conversation will include markdown support and why the initial margin they ask for looks high.

If the idea of a buyer's budget is new, open-to-buy: how retail buyers budget is worth ten minutes before you pitch.

Nordstrom specifically

Nordstrom runs full-line stores, its off-price Nordstrom Rack stores, and a large online business, and each behaves differently for a supplier.

  • Full-line stores are the brand-building placement. Buyers are selective, the seasonal calendar is strict and the vendor requirements are comprehensive.
  • Online is where many newer brands start. Nordstrom has commonly launched brands on its site first, sometimes on a dropship basis where you ship to the customer, before committing store space. Treat it as the audition.
  • Nordstrom Rack buys differently: closeouts, past-season goods and made-for-off-price product. It can be a home for excess inventory but should not be your brand's front door.

Nordstrom has also run in-store concept programs that rotate curated sets of newer brands through a dedicated space for a limited time, which is a real path for a brand with a strong story. The programs change; the retailer's own supplier page has what is current.

Beauty is its own world at Nordstrom, with its own buyers, counter and sampling expectations; the beauty-specific path is covered in how to sell to Sephora and Ulta and much of it transfers.

What the buyer looks for

Department store buyers see hundreds of brands a season and say yes to a handful. The signals that get a yes:

  • Existing heat. Direct-to-consumer sales, press, a real audience, sell-through at boutiques or specialty chains. Buyers want brands that bring shoppers to the floor.
  • A clear point of view. A brand that looks like it belongs next to the ones already there, but is not the same as any of them.
  • A collection, not a product. Apparel and accessories buyers buy assortments. A single item is hard to place; a tight collection with a range of price points is easier.
  • Price architecture. An entry price, a core price and a hero price that all make sense together and against neighboring brands.
  • The ability to deliver. On time, in full, properly ticketed and labeled, with electronic ordering. Read what buyers look for before they stock a new brand for the fuller list.

The money nobody mentions in the first meeting

This is where department stores differ most from boutiques and specialty chains. Expect the buyer to raise some or all of these:

  • Markdown money. When your product goes on sale, the store may ask you to share the margin lost. It is often negotiated as an allowance on the invoice.
  • Chargebacks. Deductions for late shipments, wrong ticketing, missing labels, incorrect carton counts. The vendor manual specifies dozens of these, and each costs real money. Retail compliance and chargebacks explains how to avoid most of them.
  • Return-to-vendor. Unsold goods may be returned to you at season end under some agreements.
  • Advertising and co-op contributions. Participation in catalogs, online placement or events.

Worked example: a jacket costs you 40 dollars landed and retails for 180. The buyer asks for a price around 80 to 85 dollars, which looks like a healthy margin for you. Then markdown support, a defect allowance and a couple of chargebacks take perhaps 8 to 12 dollars a unit off that over the season. You still make money, but the number you plan on should be the number after those costs, not before. Run it in the free wholesale margin calculator and negotiate from there.

Seasonal timing

Department stores buy in market weeks tied to the fashion calendar, and a buyer placing fall orders is doing it in the spring. Missing a market window means missing a season. Ask the buyer or their assistant when they buy your category and work backward: samples, line sheet and pricing ready a month or more before the window opens.

Gifts and home follow a similar rhythm, with holiday buys placed by late spring or early summer.

What to send

A department store buyer expects a professional package:

  1. A line sheet. Every style, colorway, size range, wholesale price, suggested retail, minimums and delivery windows. Build it with how to write a line sheet for wholesale.
  2. A lookbook or sell sheet with lifestyle photography that shows the brand, not just the product.
  3. Proof of traction. Sales, press, stockists, audience.
  4. Terms. Payment terms, shipping origin, your ability to meet the vendor manual.

Then a short, specific email to the buyer or assistant buyer: the division, why the brand fits their floor, one or two numbers, and an ask for a market appointment or a sample review. Follow up once or twice, politely.

Common mistakes

  • Pitching a single product to an assortment buyer. Bring a collection.
  • Ignoring the calendar. The best pitch in the wrong month waits six.
  • Not budgeting for markdowns and chargebacks. They come off your invoice whether you planned for them or not.
  • Starting at the top. A brand with no stockists is a hard yes; a brand selling well in specialty chains and boutiques is an easy one. How to sell to Anthropologie and Urban Outfitters covers the specialty tier many brands use as the stepping stone.

Building those stockists — boutiques, specialty chains, regional retailers — is what WholesalePilot does: paste your product link and it finds the buyers who fit your brand, verifies their emails, sends outreach in your name and books the calls, so by the time a department store buyer asks where else you sell, you have an answer.

A department store buyer is not asking whether your product is beautiful. They are asking what it earns after the sale rack.

Paste your product link and see the retail buyers who could stock you this season — the preview is free.

Find the B2B buyers for your product

Paste a product link. We find matching wholesale buyers, email them in your name, and hand you the replies.

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